Tuesday, January 26, 2021
Sunday, January 24, 2021
A friend just asked me to look at a vest she had knitted. Most of it was just fine, but she was unhappy with the armhole finishing. The armholes were too snug because the ribbing pulled them in.
When I took out the ribbing, I saw the problem.
But first, some context: One really neat trick knitters love is a way to make the row-ends look finished without any fuss. If you slip the first stitch of every row, the edge ends up looking neat and finished. Great tip. Works well.
Alternately, it works if you slip the last stitch -- but not the first stitch -- of each row (just don't do both).
Back to the matter at hand: Thing is, it's great if that edge is meant to be a finished edge, like on a scarf or a blanket. It's a bit of a problem if you plan to pick up stitches along that edge. Because what happens is that each edge stitch on the armholes actually covered two rows, so when she picked up stitches, she picked up much fewer stitches than she should have -- so the armhole was too small (there were about 50 stitches around).
My fix in this case is to pick up a stitch in 4 out of every 5 rows (a standard ratio), inserting the needle in the stitches before the edge stitch, and in each stitch at the underarm bit (I ended up with 78 stitches). She also didn't want an inch of ribbing, so I just bound off the picked-up stitches to finish. This solution means there's a little more bulk in the edge because I picked up a stitch and a half in from the edge, rather than one stitch in.
If you're knitting an edge where you want to pick up stitches later, don't slip the first/last stitch to make a pretty edge.
If you're going to pick up stitches along the edge, go ahead and stitch the first and last stitches so you have a good edge from which to pick up.
Sunday, December 27, 2020
Thursday, December 17, 2020
Sunday, December 6, 2020
Monday, August 17, 2020
This is the year of finishing my UnFinished Objects (UFOs). As I described in December, these are knitting and crocheting projects that I've had taking up space for a long time, some for years.
Monday, June 1, 2020
|Finished pouch waiting for tucking in loose ends|
My tablet was bouncing around naked for the longest time, until I realized that was risky to its safety and well-being. I was lucky it hadn’t gotten all scuffed up. So the other day, I decided to make a cover, or pouch, for it. And this is what I made.
There are lots of patterns out there for device covers, but here’s what I wanted for mine:
1. It would protect my device reasonably
2. It would be quick to make, using stuff I have on hand
3. It would be pretty brainless
Well, I had some Red Heart worsted weight acrylic yarn, and a hook to go with it. Any hook in the G- to I- range would have been fine. I used my #7/4.5 mm hook. A pin to use as a marker is optional. If I wanted to make one for my cell phone, I'd probably use a DK or sport weight yarn and a hook in the E- to G- range.
Gauge isn’t that important here: The hook should be not so small it splits the yarn; not so big the fabric is too loose. The important thing is a sturdy-enough fabric to fit the device. Since the pattern stitch has lots of chain stitches in it, gauge can be tricky because some folks chain tightly and others chain loosely. The point is to make a fabric that works.
The thick worsted weight yarn puts enough space between the tablet and the rest of reality that the tablet is fairly safe from the slings and arrows of everyday stuff, even if the pattern stitch is open and lacy.
It’s handy to have the device right there, to measure against, which is what I did. If you don’t have the device, though, it might work to find out how wide and tall it is, and cut out a piece of scrap paper that size -- that is a theoretical suggestion, and I'm not sure how true it is.
ch: Chain stitch
sc: Single crochet
( ): Instructions in parentheses mean you do what is in the parentheses as many times as it says right after the ( ).
The pattern stitch is a ch3 net stitch. That means: make a base of chain-3 loops, and in each round, working in a coil, chain 3 and single crochet into a ch-3 space.
|Starting in the center (the yellow bit), with|
increases lining up across the middle.
1. Starting at the middle of the bottom of the pouch, ch3. Sc into the last chain from the hook, to make a ring. (That’s the yellow in the picture.)
2. Continue in a coil: (Ch3, sc into the ring) 4 times – 4 chain spaces made.
3. Ch3, sc in next ch3 space. (Ch3, sc into the same space) 3 times more – to make the first increase point. (Ch3, sc in next ch3 space) 2 times. (Ch3, sc in same sp) 3 times more – to make the second increase point.
Notice the MIDDLE ch3 loop of each increase point. That’s where the increase goes in the next round.
4. Continue in pattern as set, increasing in the middle loop of each increase point, until the piece stretches to be almost as wide as the device. For a small device that might be just a round or two, not much.
|Finished the base, plus a couple rounds with no increases. |
The line across the middle shows where the increases line up.
|It looks really baggy and a bit short.|
6. Optional: Attach a pin to the last ch3 loop made, if needed, to mark the end of the round.
7. To make the top snug: (ch1, sc1 in next ch space) all the way around 1 time. This draws it in, makes the opening just barely big enough to slide over the device.
8. For a nice finishing touch, do 1 round of light crab stitch (sc in reverse – that is, going from left to right – and ch1) all the way around. This brings in the top edge so that it is snug around the device.
9. Remove the pin/marker, if you used one. Finish off, and tuck in the loose ends.
The pouch is a bit saggy around the device, so it doesn’t push any buttons on its own. The decrease at the top makes the pouch snug to slide on and off the device.
This is what I wanted, it works, and I am happy with it. If this is the kind of thing you’re looking for, I hope you’re happy with yours, too.