Monday, September 9, 2013

Toddler cardigan to crochet


Crocheted Toddler Cardigan

The main thing about this piece is the use of color:  there are 2 solid shades (A and B) and 1 coordinating variegated yarn (V).  For the pattern, work 2 rows of A, 1 row of V, 2 rows of B, and 1 row of V.  That is the color pattern for the body.  Make one sleeve from each solid color.  Do the edging in the variegated.  Honestly, if you apply this to just about any toddler sweater pattern – knitted or crocheted – you will end up with a cute sweater. 

Here are the notes for making this particular version.

One 50-gram ball EACH:  Sateen DK yarn in lavender, blue, and variegated.
6 buttons (optional)
Split ring markers (or safety pins)
Suggested hook: 4mm
Measurements of finished piece:
Chest: 24”
Armhole depth: 5”
Sleeve to underarm: 9”, including cuff; 8-1/2” before cuff
Wrist: 6”
Underarm to lower edge: 6-1/2” before edging;  7” including edging.

Gauge:  5 stitches/inch; 3-3/4 rows/inch

Notes:
This is worked in one piece from the lower edge to the underarm, with the back and fronts continued separately and joined at the shoulders.  The sleeves are worked from the armhole down to the wrist.

All three yarns are used in the body, alternating (2 rows blue, 1 row variegated, 2 rows lavender, 1 row variegated).  When changing to a new color, drop the yarn you are finishing and pick up the new yarn.  Do not cut the yarn unless the instructions say to.  Once you have started all 3 balls of yarn, there should be a strand waiting for you at the end of the row when it is time to switch colors.  In changing colors, hold the new yarn loosely for the first stitch so it does not pull along the edge.  Don’t worry about the strands of yarn along the edge – they will be covered with single crochet when you do the edging.

Draw up a loop”:  Insert hook in stitch indicated.  Yarnover.  Pull the yarnover through only the stitch indicated.

Pattern stitch:  (multiple of 4 stitches, plus 1 more). 
Row 1:  ch1, turn.  (Sc1, skip 1 st, (dc1, ch1, dc1) in next stitch, skip 1) across, ending with sc1.
Row 2:  ch3, turn – counts as 1dc.  Dc1 in last st of pr row.  *(sk1, sc1, sk1, **(dc1, ch1, dc1) in next st.  Repeat from * across, ending at **.  Dc2 in last st.

The edges are finished with single crochet and a finishing row of crab stitch.  Basically, that’s all there is.  For more specific instructions, starting at…

Lower edge of body:
Foundation pattern stitch:  Ch2, sc in 2nd st from hook.  *Yarnover twice, draw up a loop in same chain as sc just made.  Yarnover, pull through 2 loops to make a skipped space.  Yarnover, pull through 1 to make a base chain loosely (you will insert hook into this chain soon).  (Yarnover, pull through 2 loops) twice to finish a double crochet.  Ch1.  Dc in base chain just made. (Foundation V-stitch just made)  Yarnover.  Draw up a loop in same base chain. Yarnover, pull through 2 loops to make a skipped space.  Yarnover, pull through 1 to make a base chain.  Yarnover, pull through remaining 2 loops to finish a single crochet**. Repeat from * for a total of 32 foundation V-stitches, ending at **.  The piece should measure about 24 inches long.  It is important that there is a multiple of 4 pattern stitches:  half for the back, and a quarter each for the fronts.  This is a foundation version of Row 1. 

Continue in pattern stitch, starting with Row 2, being sure to change colors in this sequence:  2 rows blue, 1 row variegated, 2 rows lavender, 1 row variegated, for a total of 23 rows from the start, or just a touch over 6 inches, ending with 2 rows lavender.

Allowing 8 V-stitches at each end of the last row for the fronts, attach a pin/marker in the sc to mark the underarm point.  There should be 16 V-stitches between the markers.

One front side:
Next row:  Continue in pattern, stitch to the first marker, ending with a stitch in the marked stitch.  Work even for 15 more rows, cutting and rejoining the yarn as needed in the first few rows to re-establish the color pattern.

Neck shaping:  Next row, leave 2 pattern repeats unworked on the neck edge. 
·         If that is at the beginning of the row, fasten the yarn (but do not cut it), drape the yarn over to the 9th stitch from the edge, where you will rejoin it with a slip stitch, make a turning chain, and continue the row. 
·         If that is at the end of the row, simply leave the last 8 stitches unworked. 

Next row:  Leave 1 pattern repeat unworked on the neck edge.
·         If that is at the beginning of the row, fasten the yarn (but do not cut it), drape the yarn over to the 5th stitch from the edge, where you will rejoin with a slip stitch, make a turning chain, and continue the row. 
·         If that is at the end of the row, simply leave the last 4 stitches unworked. 

Repeat the last row 1 more time.
Work even 3 more rows.  Finish off and cut yarns.  Total number of rows:  44

Back:
Rejoin yarn in the same first marked stitch at the bottom of the armhole.  Continue in pattern to the next marked stitch, ending with a stitch in the marked stitch.  Continue in pattern, setting up and changing colors to stay in pattern, until the back is as long as the front just worked – 44 rows from the lower edge.  You should end with the same color row.  Finish off and cut yarns.  Remove first marker.

Other front side:
Rejoin yarn at remaining marker.  Continue in pattern, stitch to the end of the row.  Work even for 15 more rows, rejoining the yarn as needed in the first few rows to re-establish the color pattern. 

Neck shaping:  Next row, leave 2 pattern repeats unworked on the neck edge. 
·         If that is at the beginning of the row, fasten the yarn, and rejoin with a slip stitch on the 9th stitch from the edge to make a turning chain, and continue the row. 
·         If that is at the end of the row, simply leave the last 8 stitches unworked. 

Next Row:  Leave 1 pattern repeat unworked on the neck edge.
·         If that is at the beginning of the row, fasten the yarn, and rejoin with a slip stitch on the 5th  stitch from the edge to make a turning chain, and continue the row. 
·         If that is at the end of the row, simply leave the last 4 stitches unworked. 
Repeat the last row 1 more time.
Work even 3 more rows.  Finish off and cut yarns.  Total number of rows:  44

Remove the 2nd marker. 
Join shoulder seams.  Decide which side you want to be the right (public) side of the fabric.  Here is one way to join seams:  Hold two edges with right sides together.  Join yarn at one end, with a slip stitch.  *Ch1.  Inserting hook through both layers of fabric, slip stitch in the next stitch (or row ends, if you happen to be joining row end edges together).  Repeat from * across.  Fasten off.

Sleeve (do twice, once with each solid color)
With the right side facing, join yarn at underarm.  Looking at the gauge, you want to have 5 stitches over 3.75 rows around the armhole edge.  Set up a base row of slip stitches around the armhole, working 58 stitches around.  Stitching the pattern stitch into a row of slip stitches gives a more finished look than stitching into the row ends of the body. 

At the end of each row, slip stitch into the top of the turning chain at the beginning of the row – that way you won’t have to join a seam later.

Continuing in the pattern stitch, but staying with just the one color, work even 1 row.  Maintaining pattern stitch, decrease 1 stitch at the end of each row until 30 stitches remain.  Work even until sleeve measures 8-1/2”.   Fasten off.

Repeat on other side with other solid color for second sleeve.

Cuffs and edges
Cuffs:  With the variegated yarn, and right side facing, join with a slip stitch at end of sleeve.  Ch1.  Single crochet in each stitch around.  Join with a slip stitch to starting chain to finish row.  *Ch1, turn.  Sc across row.  Join with a slip stitch to starting chain to finish row.  Repeat from * for a total of 5 rows.  After the last row, right side should be facing.  Do not turn.  Ch1.  Sc1 in each stitch around, working from left to right – that is crab stitch.  Join with a slip stitch to first ch of row.  Finish off.  Repeat on other sleeve.

Edging:  Starting at the center back neck, with right side facing, join variegated yarn with a slip stitch.  Ch1.  Sc around the edge of the whole piece:  Sc1 in the top each stitch.  Sc2 in each dc row end.  Sc1 in each sc row end.  (Sc1, ch1, sc1) in each outside corner to increase (like at the center neck corners or the bottom center front corners).  When you get back to the center back neck, finishing the row, slip stitch in the starting ch1.

Buttonholes:  Pin a marker in each stitch where you want a buttonhole along the front edge.

Next row:  ch1, turn.  Sc in each sc around, increasing (sc1, ch1, sc1)in the ch1 at each corner as set up in the previous row.  When you reach a pin, ch1 but do not skip any stitches – this makes a small buttonhole.  Finish the row with a slip stitch in the starting ch1. 

Next row:  ch1, turn. 
Here’s how to reinforce the buttonholes:  When you reach the sc before a ch, draw up a loop in that sc and in the ch1 space – so there are 3 loops on your hook.  Yarnover, and pull through all three loops to finish the stitch.  Draw up a loop in the ch1 space and also in the next sc – so there are 3 loops on your hook.  Yarnover, and pull through all three loops to finish the stitch.

Sc in each sc around, increasing as before at each outside corner, and reinforcing the buttonholes as defined.  Finish the row with a slip stitch in the starting ch1. 

After the last row, right side should be facing.  Do not turn.  Ch1.  Sc1 in each stitch around, working from left to right – that is crab stitch.  Join with a slip stitch to first ch of row.  Finish off. 


Sew buttons on opposite front edge to match the buttonholes.  Tuck in loose ends.

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